Dhaka Muslin:
Muslin:
With the creation of muslin regulation on this half of the nation, the spinning and weavers had been given impetus to create things worthy of their unique testes and thru their patronage, the countries arts and crafts thrived around fourteenth or 15th century when the famous Dacca Muslin came into being. Production of muslin fabrics turn into almost confined to a specific sect acknowledged since the Basaks of Dacca.
One want be interested to know as how the word Muslin turn into derived. It is believed that long staple cotton of further fineness turn into grown inside the hilly tract of Masul, the capital of Kurdistan, Iraq. The spinners and the weavers of the place had been familiar with the art of producing yarns and fabrics of muslin range. During the reign of Sultan Qutubuddin of turkey around 1210 AD, cotton seeds and artisans had been brought and few decided on nearby artisan had been trained. The Basaks of Dhaka now not just learnt the arts and crafts yet increased the constructions to a best possible perfection leading to the production of the world famous Dacca Muslin. This is per chance going the background of the derivation of the word Muslin from Masul.
Some analyze that the muslin originated from the name Maisolos. Marco Polo, the famous traveler, visited the Kakatiya kingdom the place Machilipatnam turn into positioned and praised the muslin obtainable there. In 1298, Marco Polo describes the cloth in his e book The Travels. The word turn into derived from Mosul , Iraq. Although this view has the fabric named after the metropolis the place Europeans first encountered it (Mosul), the fabric is believed to have originated in Dhaka, capital of Bangladesh. In the 9th century, an Arab service provider named Sulaiman makes notes of the elements origins in Bengal (usally usally called Ruhml in Arabic)
Fig: A girl in Dhaka dressed in muslin saree for the duration of 18th century (Image: Wikipedia)
During the reign of Akbar, Sonargaon turn into the capital of old bangle. It turn into usally usally usally called an ideal port for exporting muslin, to Salt-peter, Borax and so on all through the world. Among the Europeans, the Dutch and the French had been the first to take up this modification on advertisement basis. The English americans came on this line in 1666.
Records expose that inside the yr 1787 Muslin Fabrics worthy more than hundreds of thousands of rupees had been exported to the foreign countries through Sonargaon port.
But Dhaka Muslin find your self famous and attracted foreign and transmarine shopper after the establishment of the Mughal capital at Dhaka. The Muslin marketplace of Dhaka gained patronage from the Mughal emperors and the Mughal the aristocracy. A large, immense volume of the greatest form of muslin turn into produced for the use of the Mughal emperors, provincial governors and high officers and nobles. In the grate 1851 Exhibition of London, Dhaka Muslin occupied a outstanding place, attracted a massive differ of traffic and the British press spoke very hugely of the marvelous Muslin fabrics of Dhaka.
Fig: Muslin weaving
Todays the name muslin is purely a files of old Bengal. It is a loosely woven greatest cotton fabric which originated in Bangladesh. It turn into as fine as 50 meters long muslin cloth could be stuffed in a match container. Remnants of muslin inside the British Museum on computation had been realized to be of yarns as fine as 242 Ne depend (115 miles, 2 furlongs and 60 yards to pound). In one other case one Ratti (2 grains) of yarn measured a length of 80 yards which can be 332 ne counts. Another file reflects that 20 cubits of fabric could be blown off by mouth. It is additionally believed that yards of 4 hundred Ne counts had been spun purely by hand. A legent that after a work of muslin cloth of Nawab ali- Bardi Khan named Anbe-e-Raoya turn into stored on grasses of front flooring palace for drying, a cow eat it as grass. Nawab turn into angry to the honour of the cow and advised him to maneuver out from the metropolis.
Manufacturing History of Dhaka Muslin:
Weaving turn into prevalent inside the Dhaka district in almost every unmarried and every village, yet some locations find your self famous for manufacturing superior quality of Muslins. These locations had been Dhaka, Sonargaon, Dhamrai, Teetbady, Junglebary and Bajitpur. Sonargaon is now in Narayanganj district, it turn into once the capital of Sultan Fakhruddin Mubarak Shah and his son (1338-1353), and another time capital if Isa Khan inside the Mughal period; Dhamrai stays to be an ideal place on the Bangshi river, about 20 miles west of Dhaka. Teetbady is a village inside the Kapasia thana of Gazipur district; Junglebary is now inside the district of Mymensingh on the eastern financial college of the river Brahmaputra; Bajitpur, 15/20 miles clear of Junglebary is additionally in Mymensingh district; Junglebary turn into for long a residence of the cherished ones of Isa Khan.
These locations synthetic fine quality cloth, on the grounds that they had been located close the locations the place cotton appropriate for manufacturing Muslins turn into produced. Everyone of a cherished ones would involve producing a material. Generally girls had been thought-about as a spinner of muslin yarns. Men felt insulting to spin yarn. The man who turn into looser in warfare had to spin yarn as punishment. Several tiers they would be crossed. Stages had been shuta natano (winding), tana hotano (warping), shan bandha (sizing), narod bandha (drawing), bu- bandha (denting) and kapor bona (weaving). They used bamboo looms for producing muslins.
These looms consist merely of two bamboo rollers and a pair of heddles and a shuttle. The loom in its entirety is attached between any two native tress affording a comfy shade. The muslin clothes had been as fine because it could be carried readily through a ring. The greatest form of muslin turn into usally called Malmal, occasionally talked about as Malmal Shai or Malmal Khas by foreign guests. It turn into coslty, and the weavers spent an prolonged time, occasionally six months, to make a work of this sort. It turn into used by emperors and nawabs. Muslins procured for emperors had been usally called Malbus Khas and those procured for nawabs had been usally called Sarkar-i-Ala. The Mughal government appointed an officer, Darogha or Darogha-i-Malnus Khas to supervise the manufacture of muslin meant for the emperor or a nawab. The Malmal turn into additionally procured for the diwan and other high officers and for Jagat Sheth, the fantastic banker. Muslins until eventually malmal (or Malbus Khas and Sarkar-i-Ali) had been exported by the traders or some portion turn into used domestically.
Muslin had been hand-woven plain cloth of extremely fine hand spun yarns. It turn into plain woven cotton fabric made in numerous weights. The increased qualities of muslin are fine calmly spun warps and wefts, or fillings. They are given a tender finish, bleached or piece-dyed, and are occasionally patterned inside the loom or printed. The coarser varieties are usally of irregular yarns and textures, bleached, unbleached, or piece-dyed and are basically finished by the application of sizing. Grades of muslin are know by such names as e book, mull, Swiss and sheeting.
Different types of muslin fabrics name:
Different names had been used for utterly the many qualites of muslin. Different types of muslin fabrics had been following:
Malmal Khas very fine used by emperors & nawabs of Delhi.
Sarker EW Ala very fine used by nawabs of Murshidabad.
Jhuna turn into used by native dancers.
Rang turn into very transparent and net-like texture.
"Abirawan turn into fancifully in contrast with walking water.
Khassa turn into special quality, fine or classy.
Shabnam turn into as morning dew.
Alaballee turn into very fine.
Tanzib turn into since the adoring the body.
Nayansukh turn into as desirable to the eye.
Buddankhas turn into a special form of cloth.
Seerbund used for turbans.
Kumees used for making shirts.
Doorea turn into striped.
Charkona turn into chequered cloth.
Jamdanee turn into figured cloth.
Properties of muslin cloth:
Very fine cloth.
It is smooth and mild.
It is cool and cozy.
It wears neatly.
It is medium to gentle-weight.
Transparent.
Uses of muslin:
Saree.
Dress making and sewing
Backing or lining for quilts.
Culinary
Used as a filter (decanting fine wine)
Used to wrap a chrismas pudding.
Used to mask the background of theater.
Curtains or upholstery and so on.
Immersing of muslin:
The muslin marketplace of Dhaka declined after the Battle of Palashi, 1757, by the tip of the 18th century, the export of Dhaka Muslin came appropriate down to almost about half of that of 1747, and by the middl;e of the nineteenth century turn into valued at not as much as ten lakh rupees. The decline of Dhaka Muslin turn into due to the lack of patronage from the Mughal emperors, nawabs and other high officials. The Mughals aren't only lost their energy and prestige yet also their obtaining and spending capacity. With the establishment of the East India companys monopoly over the modification of Bengal after the combat of Plashi, the modification of other European Companies and traders belonging to other country vast nearly came to a cease. But the a lot extremely important explanation for decline and the ultimate extinction of the Muslin marketplace turn into the industrial revolution in England. The British government banned the sale of muslin and production in 1800.
They tortured on the weaver of muslin. A legend that the British government had cut back the thumb fingers of the muslin weavers. The costly Dhaka cotton goods, specially the Muslin, lost in rivalry with low price international products of England.
Jamdani:
Jamdani is an old fine Muslin cloth with geometric or floral designs. The origin of the word jamdani is doubtful. One common notion is that it came from the Persian word jamdani, which means that,a vase of plants, jamdani the fantastic attribute of first-class art in hand weaving.
A legend says that emperor Aurangzeb went into suit rage when, one day he saw his daughter dressed in nothing. On his rebuke, she responded that she is dressed in now not one, yet seven dresses covering her body. Such is the fineness of hand woven fabrics.
Fig: Dhakai jamdani
Without any shadow of doubt, or now not it's miles regularly said that the art of creating jamdani designs on fine fabric reached its zenith for the duration of Mughal rule. In India, Jamdani is being produced in West Bengal and Faizabad in Uttar Pradesh. There had been hand looms in almost all villages of the Dhaka district. Dhaka, Sonargoan, Dhamrai. Titabari, Jangalbari and Bajitpur had been famous for making superior quality jamdani and muslin. The Mughal Emperor , the Nawab of Bengal and other aristocrats used to engage agents at Dhaka to purchase high quality muslin and jamdani for his or her masters use. The call for for jamdani and muslin fabrics at dwelling and in a foreign country grew and this brought about further merit in their manufacture.
Manufacturing History of Jamdani:
The Mughals identified the excellence, acknowledged of jamdanis rarity. During the place of Emperor Jahangir and Aurangjeb, the manufacturer of finer Jamdani turn into a exceptional product and a royal monopoly. There had been two types of jamdani in accordance to position of manufacturing. The weavers of Dacca had been educated in Jandani usally usally called Daccai Jamdani turn into endured to develop beneath the partronage of Nawabs of Dacca (inside the intervening time beneath Bangladesh) and Jamdani is being produced in West Bengal and Faizabad in Uttar Pradesh had been they make jamdani, named Tanda (usally usally usally called Awadh Jamdani)- a cotton fabric brocaded with cotton and infrequently zari (a tinsel, metallic thread) thread had been endured to develop beneath the patronage of Nawabs Wajid Ali Shah of Tanda.
Manufacturing elements:
Raw material: Karpash cotton or silk thread
Machinery/Tool:
Handloom
Scissors
Charka (spinning m/c)
Taku (spindle)
Maku (shuttle)
Spools (used for layout)
Manufacturing method:
To produce pure cotton Jamdanis weavers use cotton /silk blends, or other varities of fiber.
Yarns had been dyed utilizing herbal dyes.
Jamdani is hand-woven on aloom made out of bamboo, the place the weaver sits in a trench or pit which can be dug into the flooring.
One in explicit of jamdani loom is that it does now not make any sound while weaving.
The creation of the warp and the putting in place and dressing of the loom are purely like other hand-loom weaving constructions.
In weaving, utilizing a throw shuttle acknowledged since the maku, the base fabric is woven in aplain weave charter.
Traditionally an open weave that expose up thin and has an half transparency.
Motif: Two weavers sit side by side at the loom and upload every unmarried and every discontinuous supplementary weft motif seperately, by hand, interlacing the supplementary weft threads into the warp with fine bamboo sticks in a zigzag way utilizing individual spools of thread. No warp-lifting mechanism is used.
The cotton threads used for opaque motifs are occasionally replaced by zari (golden) threads.
The supplementary weft threads used are traditionaly thicker and heavier than threads used to weave the base fabric.
Those woven with a silk base usally use cotton threads to create the brocade layout.
The designs are never sketched or outlined, yet are made while the fabric stays to be on the loom, inserted by hand for the duration of the method of weaving, producing an embroidery-like impression Motifs. Important characteristics of Jamdani consist of the motifs, mostly floral, are of geometric shape, inevitably spreading across the fabric in adiagonal format. The spread of motifs diagonally across the fabric is thought as Tercha.
A starch combination is carried out to the fabric after both meter is woven yet while it stays to be on the loom.
Structure of Jamdani:
Mainly Jamdani is a plain woven fabric. Every woven fabric has a warp, the longitudinal threads of the fabric, and a weft, the threads that go horizontally across. Jamdani has supplementary (or further) weft which can be introduced wherever the layout is to be placed and woven into that decided on place only. It serves as purely decoration and isn't half of the textiles charter inside the way that the basic warp and weft are.
Properties of Jamdani cloth:
Very fine cloth.
Smooth and tender
Comfortable
Medium to gentle-weight
Transparent
Uses of Jamdani:
Jamdani is a form of first-class cloth, mostly used for saree. Todays the makes use of of Jamdani is bendy. Now Jamdani is additionally used for making dresses (Three piece, Panjabi, Kamiz, Tops), scarves, handkerchiefs, ornas, hand bag, bed covers, pillow covers, curtains, wall mate and so on.
Jute goods:
From the seventeenth century to the core of twentieth century, the British Empire authority turn into delegated by the British East India Company which turn into the first jute trader. The uncooked jute turn into traded by this company. During the initiate of twentieth century, Margaret Donnelly in Dundee had set up first jute mill in India. The first consignment of jute turn into exported by East India Company inside the yr 1793. In the starting of yr 1830, Dundee spinners have determined spinning of jute yarn by transfiguring their energy driven flax tips. This leads to enlarge inside the export and production of uncooked jute from Indian sub-continent which turn into the unmarried seller of jute.
After getting independence, many of the jute barons had started to quit India, leaving the set up of jute mills. Most of them had been by Marwaris businessmen. During the yr 1947, after the partitioning, East Pakistan had the greatest inventory of jute. From then onwards, utterly the many groups of Pakistani families have joined the jute company by establishing many kills in Narayanganj and Khulna. At that time, the export of jute cloth turn into being an imposing foreign currency earner and playing a very extremely important role inside the economy of the nation. In the yr 1971, after the liberation of Bangladesh happened from Pakistan many of the jute mills had been taken over by the Bangladesh government. Later, government had built BJMC (Bangladesh Jute Mills Corporation) to avert an eye on and handle jute mills of Bangladesh. The a lot elementary and imperative jute commodities fabricated in Bangladeshi jute mills are: Carpets, Hessain and Sacking cloth for bags, Hydro-carbon free cloth, Geo-textile, utterly the many types of hand bags and decorative models.
Garment marketplace:
In 1978 the RMG marketplace established in Bangladesh with nine enterprises and has grown at a blistering pace since. This outstanding enlarge is due largely to the basic degree of science required inside the marketplace. The tips is comparatively inexpensive and readily obtainable. In addition, garments producers can function in smaller premises than those required by many of the processes inside the textile marketplace. On prime of this, Bangladesh has an abundant supply of low price exertions consisting mostly of ladies for whom this is usally one of the a lot appropriate styles of employment. This formula collectively with incentives such as liberal modification insurance policies, low price lists on imported tips and bonded warehouse features is helping the enlarge of the garments marketplace.
References:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textile_industry_in_Bangladesh
http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2014/01/files-of-textile-industries-in.html
http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2017/06/bangladesh-textile-marketplace.html
http://www.btmadhaka.com/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jamdani
Introduction of Textile Engineering by Dr. Hosne Ara Begum
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muslin
http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/
http://www.fibre2fashion.com
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